Yesterday, I posted this piece on color correcting concealers. As one with dark circles under my eyes, I just had to give it a try. Dark circles have always been a problem for me. I recall in third grade, Robert Long decided to change my name from Raquel to Raccoon. All of the other boys in the classroom got a kick out of it and of course, joined in the teasing. I became Raccoon for the rest of third grade. Ugh! As a result, I’ve always been self-conscious about my dark under eye circles.
With memories of third grade on my mind, I was ready to conceal and cover up this morning! It is recommended that people with skin tones of medium and darker use red or orange concealer to hide those dreaded circles. So I used a reddish-orange concealer (bottom right on the photos below). I applied with a concealer brush to be sure to get in those crevices where my finger couldn’t reach – that space in the inner corner of my eye and just under my bottom lid. Afterward, I covered the correcting concealer with one that more closely matches my skin tone. The concealers I used were nothing fancy; just a kit I picked up for very cheap in my local beauty supply store.
Now…this is where it gets interesting. I always wear a foundation to work. However, as an educator, I haven’t been to work since December 23rd because of the holiday break, so I haven’t been wearing it regularly. After 11 days off from work, today was my first day back to work, but my whole morning routine was out of whack. Can you believe that I forgot to put on foundation today?!?! I had simply put on eye shadow, mascara, and lipstick after blending in my concealer. I didn’t realize what I had done until I was washing makeup off my hands. You see, I typically squirt foundation on the back of my hand before applying it and have to scrub hard to wash it off when I’m done. This morning, THERE WAS NONE THERE! OMG…I had forgotten to put it on! I looked at the clock and I was running late. There was no time to put on foundation. Egad! I was prepared to look a mess today.
I jumped in my truck and rushed to work. I was afraid to look at myself, but took a quick peek in my rearview mirror anyway. Then I took a longer peek. Then I stared. I said to myself…”Hey, I don’t look bad!” I was shocked.
In addition to using the correcting concealer, I had used concealer to highlight and contour, but I had forgotten to use my foundation first. Amazingly, the concealer was all I needed! The concealer hid every flaw without the need for foundation. Unbelievable! I now see that use of concealer can save time in the morning without the added step of applying foundation; and that it will also save money in that I will likely need to purchase less foundation moving forward.
In this photo, I began with Avon MagiX Face Perfector to prime my face. Then I used reddish-orange concealer to cover my dark circles and a variety of concealers from the kit (pictured above) to highlight and contour. On my lips, I’m wearing Avon True Color Perfectly Matte Lipstick in Adoring Love and Avon SuperExtend Mascara in Black on my lashes.
Hmm…not bad for 48! God bless concealer!
I started wearing makeup decades ago. I only recall concealer coming in various skin tone shades to cover dark circles and other flaws. Today, there are concealers in multiple colors, each with a specific job. Let’s take the time to gain some understanding about color correcting concealers and how they work.
Very few of us have perfect skin. Some have dark circles, some have discoloration, some have redness, etc. Let’s take a look at The Color Wheel below to see how to pick the right concealer.
Notice the primary, secondary, and tertiary colors on the wheel above. A primary color is a color that can’t be made by mixing other colors together. You can see on the wheel that primary colors are red, blue, and yellow. A secondary color can be made by mixing primary colors together. For example, red and blue make purple; and yellow and blue make green. (I remember that from elementary school art class!) A tertiary color is made by mixing primary and secondary colors. Colors opposite each other on this wheel are called complementary colors (for example: blue and yellow).
Question: Why is this important when choosing correcting concealers?
Answer: Because color correcting makeup will cancel out any discoloration of its complementary color.
Notice how these colors complement/neutralize each other
Do you have….
- Redness or broken capillaries? Try green concealer. It will neutralize the red.
- Unwanted yellow overtone or sallowness? Try a lavender concealer; or perhaps blue.
- Dark under eye circles, particularly on fair skin? Try pink concealer (which is more like peach or salmon). This color is actually a mix of red, orange, and yellow hues and dark circles are often a mix of blue, purple, and green hues.
- Purple or blue bruises or veins? Try yellow concealer. Yellow may also work for some on under eye circles.
- Dark skin (deeper than medium) and dark under eye circles or other dark areas? Try orange or red concealer.
- Flawless or near flawless skin? A neutral concealer will mask your minor skin imperfections.
Correcting concealer palette
Color correcting isn’t for everyone. You may have already have a system that works for you. If not, give it a try and let me know how it worked!
Credit: Retrieved from Buzzfed.com on December 31, 2016
- Can’t find the right shade? You may need to purchase foundation in two different shades. One should be a shade darker and the other a shade lighter. Mixed together, it should make a nice match. Mix a few drops together on the back of your hand or on a palette and apply. You may need to play around with the amount you use of each shade until it matches your complexion. Women of color especially may have to do this because there often aren’t enough shades in our skin tones.
- Use the right tool to apply your foundation. Use a stippling brush for light coverage, a buffing brush for medium coverage, and a flat brush for full coverage. You will use less product because you’ll find that a little goes a long way. Avoid using a sponge applicator because it tends to soak up the foundation resulting in a lot of waste because the foundation ends up inside the sponge.
- When applying foundation, start at the center and use down strokes working your way out. Buff in foundation using circular motions.
- Only use foundation where you feel you need it. This will help your face to look more natural. Remember, less is more!
- Don’t limit foundation to just your face. Apply it to your neck and to your decolletage if it is showing. What about other exposed areas? Do you want your face to be an entirely different color than your ears? Add foundation there, too. You may not have to worry about this so much if you’ve done a good job of matching your foundation with your complexion.
- If you dampen a beauty blender and use it to blend in your foundation and even it out, it will give you a finish that looks airbrushed.
- I used to put on concealer before applying foundation. This is a no no.Apply it after . the foundation. Using a concealer brush will help you to cover under eye circles in the corner. Concealer should only be a shade lighter than your own skin. Blend it well so that it provides a nice highlight.
- Always set your foundation with powder – loose or pressed. This will help the foundation to stay on your face and not rub off onto other materials. It will also last longer. Apply to your T-zone and under your eye. Let the powder “bake” onto your face by letting it sit for about 5 minutes then brushing off.
- When you set your foundation, only powder your T-zone. This is typically where we get oily. It prevents you from using too much powder and walking around with a ghost face.
- Is your foundation too thick? Need less coverage? Thin it out with a little water or add a little moisturizer to it. It will become sheer. The more water or moisturizer you add, the more sheer the foundation will be become.Thin it to your liking.
- Need to make your foundation a little thicker? Add just a little face powder to it.
- Did you know you can make your own tinted moisturizer by mixing your own moisturizer with a few drops of liquid foundation?
- You can mix your primer and your foundation and apply them together instead of separately. This will ensure that the products blend seamlessly instead of appearing layered on top of each other.
- Many of us put on highlighter after we apply foundation. Try putting the highlighter on under the foundation next time. As the foundation wears throughout the day, you will have a glow underneath from the highlighter.
- Crush some golden eyeshadow or pearly white eyeshadow and mix it into your foundation. It will make your skin appear luminous..
- Blot your face before and after applying foundation to prevent the foundation from oxidizing and changing color (orange).
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